Circus tricks
Working systematically towards success

For quite some time now, the performance of circus tricks has not been limited to the circus big tops of the world. More and more people are discovering enjoyment in this unique and fascinating way of working with their horses. There is now barely a yard or equestrian centre in which at least one of its residents hasn’t at the very least mastered the art of taking a bow.

Unfortunately, it is also obvious there is often a lack of structure or system when it comes to training these horses to perform circus tricks. Sometimes it is forgotten that we are dealing with a form of training that needs to be taken seriously. Just as in every other equestrian discipline, a solid and systematic approach is the key to you forging a harmonious relationship with your equine partner.

Learning something new together, strengthening mutual bonds and having fun – working on circus tricks offers all these things.

Working through circus-related lessons will bring enjoyment and variety into the daily routine. In addition to this, the classical circus lessons are particularly good as suppling exercises when correctly carried out. Bowing, kneeling, lying down, sitting and the Spanish walk will all exercise the same multiple muscle groups that are used when horses are ridden or driven. Through the stretching and strengthening of tendons, ligaments and muscles, regular training will help to prevent injury and help avoid tension. The horse’s balance is also trained, which means that circus trick training is also well suited to young or unbalanced horses.

The real benefit of circus work, however, is the way it helps both horse and handler to develop on a mental level. It stimulates communication, learning aptitude and trust, without the pressure or demand to perform. A horse that doesn’t trust his trainer is unlikely to lie down in front of her. With time, the handler will find it easier to communicate with increasingly subtle signals and commands, and to work through new exercises.

By building up a correctlystructured training system, a horse can be encouraged to think with you, rather than just being a passive participant. Horses that master circus routines and tricks often have their own charisma and exude both confidence and vitality.

Required skills for horse and trainer

Being able to work horses in-hand with confidence is one of the prerequisites of successfully working through circus tricks. The basic skills of communication, understanding and respect should have been established already. The horse should alow himself to be touched everywhere, be happy to lift up his feet when asked, and accept being tied up. He must not be scared of the whip. The basics of being led in walk and trot on a straight line and on a circle, as well as halting, standing still, backing up and, ideally, lowering the head, should all pose no problems.

It is also advantageous if the horse is used to voice commands and understands being praised and reprimanded, so that you can give him the appropriate feedback and responses during work (such as ‘that’s right/wrong’).

Having a trained eye with regard to the reactions and movement of your own horse is also important, so that you can act appropriately and make it as clear as possible to the horse what you would like from him. A slow, imprecise or uncoordinated response to a horse performing a desired movement, as well as the lack of praise, are all motivation-killers and will make the work unnecessarily difficult.

Of course, you can begin this work even if you can‘t fulfil all of these prerequisites. The training itself will quickly improve your skills in these areas too.

The horse’s age

Providing a horse is used to people and has basic groundwork skills, circus training can be started with horses as early as two or three years of age. However, consideration should be given to a horse’s individual stage of development. If a young horse absolutely refuses to carry out certain movements then – besides a lack of understanding – it could be due to a physical problem. Attention should also be paid to whether the horse is mentally mature enough to be able to concentrate and learn. This is rarely the case with a horse under two years of age. You run the risk of over-facing such a young horse by demanding too high a level of concentration from him. This will not create a good basis for later training and can quickly lead to problems.

Before starting to work on circus routines, the horse should have been trained in basic groundwork.

Horses find it easiest to learn when they are between two and six years of age, since the ability to learn and the instinct for play is especially pronounced at this stage. Additionally, a horse’s natural curiosity at this age also makes work easier.

There is also nothing to be said against training horses to perform circus tricks when they are older or if they can’t be ridden. Aslong as they are not physically constrained in their natural behaviours (rolling, lying down and so on) you need have no worries about demanding too much of them from a physical perspective. You should weigh up each case carefully, possibly also checking with your vet, in order to determine whether the work might be to the detriment of a horse’s health. Whatever you do, in these circumstances, always proceed slowly. Older horses sometimes find it harder to learn new things or to do old things in a new way. Once you have got their interest in this new type of activity, they are usually enthusiastic participants!

The horse’s breeding

Circus tricks are suitable for all breeds of horses. Some horses, however, will be particularly well or less well suited to certain tricks because of certain characteristics that may be typical for their breed. Thoroughbreds, for example, tend to be more highly-strung and will find exercises involving rearing or Spanish walk much easier than, for example, my own heavy horse Tarek, who by his very nature has a calmer temperament.

A varied education is not dependent on breeding.

It is also possible to see how breeding affects a horse’s learning behaviour. Horses whohave draught breeding will learn in a markedly different way from Thoroughbreds. They often learn more slowly and need longer to grasp what is wanted of them. If you put them under too much pressure, you can easily restrict their ability to think. Once they have learnt something however, they are very reliable and are attentive to and enjoy their work.

Warmbloods, on the other hand, will often learn faster but may tend to be over-motivated, which can make calm and concentrated work more difficult. Since their flight instinct is more highly developed, they often need longer to learn exercises such as lying down or kneeling. This is outweighed, however, by the advantage gained on a mental level, which is all the greater.

Of course you cannot pigeonhole every horse like this. Just like people, horses are individuals and like to be treated as such.

Equipment and the training environment

Training equipment

It is important to wear sturdy footwear – this doesn’t include wellingtons or trainers and certainly not sandals. It is always a possibility that your foot can accidently be trodden on. Gloves are also advisable in case your horse tries to pull the rope out of your hand or is startled by something. Avoid flapping or loose clothing,which might make it more difficult for your horse to read your body language correctly.

Whip

The whip is an important communication tool and an essential part of your equipment. It serves as an extension of your arm. Used to supporti your signals, it will instinctively be understood by even young and inexperienced horses. It encourages, animates, confines, reminds, points the way and, in rare cases, it can also be used to reprimand. Depending on a horse’s size, the whip should be between 80 and 120 cm long and not too flexible or ‘whippy’. With a whip that is too springy or soft, it will be difficult to apply the precise and economical aids that are necessary.

White whips are clearly visible and have proven to be particularly effective. Whether you prefer a whip with a thong (the attachment at the end of the whip) or without is a matter of preference. I prefer the former, as my experience has shown that this type can be used with more precision. You should detach any hand straps or loops, as these can restrict your freedom of movement when using.

A correctly equipped horse and trainer pair

Head collar, rope and reins

A well-fitted head collar or rope halter is suitable for circus work, although a knotted rope halter can be slightly more severe in its effect. Avoid using a head collar with a stretch or elastic insert over the nose or poll as your horse may at the wrong moment be able to slip out of it surprisingly quickly and your aids will not be as controllable.

You should use a rope that has been specially designed for in-hand work. These are made from strong webbing or rope, and are woven around a core that gives the rope stability and the necessary weight.

The length should be between 3.5 and 3.8 metres and it should have a solid, compact clasp like a bull snap. Do not use one with a panic catch as these can be opened too quickly or accidentally, and usually at precisely the wrong moment. Lead ropes without a core or those made from cotton are as unsuitable as those made from polypropylene. They are too light, too thin and too loosely woven for you to be able to give your horse the subtle aids...